Winston Churchill’s “Chartwell”

Saturday, August 15, 2009 - Still another climax in a fortnight of climaxes. Steve will be driving Donna and Ed to “Chartwell,” the country home of Winston Churchill in the Weald of Kent. We feel special, riding in a handsome London cab through the most beautiful countryside in the world. Kent is incredible, and one exhausts all superlatives in describing it. No wonder Churchill chose to live here.

Many people have come to pay homage to Churchill, and soon it will be crowded. We catch a light lunch and coffee at the snack bar, and then begin to walk the long path to the mansion. Along the way, we see plants and ponds created by the great man himself, a magnificent accomplishment. Eventually we reach the line at the front door and after a short wait we are ushered in. Steve notes the Masonic pillars framing the front door, the significance of which none of the tour guides are aware.

Large cards are given to each visitor to explain the mansion. Unfortunately Ed can’t read his card because he lost his spectacles somewhere on the long, winding pathway to the mansion. Never was such a loss so ill-timed. Ouch!

We are ushered in to Churchill’s large study, ancient beams overhead, from which is hung a medieval banner. We see Churchill’s many books, and the long stand-up desk he used to work. Finally there is his huge traditional desk, a table really, in front of the window, giving him a spectacular view down upon the Kent countryside. Many of his books were written here. What’s more, the Free World was saved here.
Next we move to the living room. It is huge and impressive. Fireplace, groups of plush chairs, paintings by Churchill himself. One can easily see the family at ease here.

Upstairs to Lady Churchill’s chamber. Large and comfortable, vintage 1930’s. It’s beautiful. Next we gravitate to rooms containing Churchill medals, uniforms, and gifts from foreign leaders, all labeled and explained. We find it odd that this is all found in the house when perhaps it should be displayed in a separate building, especially as it is very crowded in these rooms. Nevertheless, it is mightily impressive, and there are few people who could match these accomplishments.

Steve’s favorite room is the dining room, or, as he calls it, the “breakfast nook.” And what a nook it is! It is as big as the living room. A large round dining table and chairs are located near the great windows that look out at the huge lawn and the rolling Kent countryside. We can see Churchill spending hours here with family and world statesmen, and we can smell the cigars. Churchill even painted himself and his family here! We can see why Steve likes it.

Next we see the kitchen, frozen in time in the 1930’s, and an exhibit on Churchill’s life, and then we exit the house. We walk down the sloping lawn to Churchill’s studio, set up as if Churchill would be arriving to finish a painting soon. We tour the incredible gardens, all surrounded by tall walls whose bricks were laid by Churchill himself, the pastime he chose for relaxation! The garden sports the largest selection of roses, and the biggest thistles imaginable! Ed finally finds his glasses that were turned into the main gate, just in time to look around the book shop. Then it is time to go. Never have we visited a more moving site. Steve drives us back to Writtle. But the day is far from over!

Tonight will be a party night! Steve and Lyn have invited a large contingent of friends to meet us after dinner. Some of them hail from Steve’s Masonic Lodge, and others are neighbors or fellow customers at the “Endeavor,” Steve’s favorite pub. Both Steve and Lyn, as well as their beautiful and wonderful daughters Emma and Nicki, have worked very hard to arrange for food and drink and cater tonight’s soiree, and Ed is looking forward to testing the various English beers being set up in the garden (yard). Young Harry helps decorate the garden with innumerable British and American flags, and helps with all aspects of party preperation.

The party is a smash hit! All are smiling and cracking jokes, and they put us Americans at ease. The party is terrific, and we will never forget the great time we had, all enhanced by the handsome home that Lyn and Steve maintain, and by the picture-perfect garden Steve has created to the rear. The weather blesses us, too, as it has almost this entire trip. We know how lucky we are, and enjoy every minute of the wonderful hospitality, friendship, food, and conversation. It’s been quite a day, one that we will not soon forget!

Westminster Abbey and the Infamous “Endeavor” Pub

While we are in line, Big Ben rings to add an exclamation point to the incredible events we are about to experience. Upon entering, we are handed electronic wands that we place to our ears, and the sonorous voice of actor Jeremy Irons begins to describe the various sections and maze of alcoves that encompass the interior of this incredibly moving place. Hundreds of notable and famous people are interred here. We pass the tombs of monarchs like Henry VII (died 1509, five hundred years ago) and even Edward the Confessor (died January 1066!!) Later, we almost worship at the tomb of Elizabeth I (died 1603), perhaps the world’s most influential female of the entire second millennium. Underneath her is interred her tragic half-sister, Mary, with whom she competed for the throne. We are told this placement is not meant to demean Mary’s memory. Later, we visit the tombs of James I (who succeeded Elizabeth) and his mother, Mary Queen of Scots (another tragic competitor for Elizabeth’s throne). We stare wide-eyed at the “Coronation Chair”, upon which every monarch since Edward I of the late thirteenth century (see “Braveheart”) was crowned. It has been badly mistreated over the centuries: worn, spindly, with wood shaved and graffiti carved, but enormously moving. Eventually we come to “Poet’s Corner”, where many tombs and commemorative plaques are embedded in walls and floors. We found Burns and Kipling and Tennyson and Yeats and Jonson, and countless others. (NOTE I just thought of: is the fact that William Shaxpere of Stratford is NOT buried here of significance? An A-HA moment! He DOES have a plaque, though.) Arriving near the cathedral’s center, we salute the tomb of perhaps the second millennium’s most influential male, the famed scientist Isaac Newton. No mention of a falling apple. Finally, we bow at Britain’s flower-ringed Tomb of the Unknown Soldier ringed by striking red poppies. The finish to one of the most memorable two hours of our lives.

But it is not over! We stroll down “Bird in Cage Avenue,” making note of the wonderful homes that line it on the left, and of the handsome, bucolic, manicured St. James Park to the right, occupying an entire block. Eventually we swing a corner and spy the enormous and opulent Buckingham Palace. Milling about are thousands of people, many draped over the huge fountain in front. Busy traffic whizzes by. We are sure that the Queen is vacationing at Balmoral in Scotland. From here we can sight all the way down the park and spy St. Steven’s Tower, poking over the tress in the distance.

After enjoying this colorful setting, we walk south and pick up the “tube” (subway). Very clean, and no crowds. This takes us to the Tower of London, now enjoying renewed interest since this is the 500th anniversary of Henry VIII’s coronation. After a fish-and-chips lunch, we enter and hook up with an amusing tour guide dressed as a “yeoman” or “beef-eater.” We learn about the various gaols (jails) located here, and the famous people like Sir Walter Ralegh (correctly spelled) who were held or executed. We hear the story of the “Princes in the Tower,” apparently secretly done in by Richard III who regarded them as challengers to the throne. We saw the “White Tower,” built by William the Conquerer in the 1080’s! Due to long lines, we did not see the armor worn by Henry VIII or the Crown Jewels, but it has already been a long day and it is time to head for home. We leave the Tower with one last view of the Thames River and Tower Bridge looming overhead.

Special events this day are not finished. Steve will be taking us to his favorite “hangout”, the Endeavor, a pub where he meets his mates for the past 30 years. We’ve heard so much about it already, we feel we are members of its close knit crowd. Steve has for weeks told them he’s bringing in his American friends, and they welcome us with open arms. We are presented with several English ales, and listen as the friends kid each other and “take the Mickey out of each other”. There is a cameraderie. The Endeavor’s owner presents us with a bar rag, Adnams glass, and embroidered polo shirt! There are many shouts of joking protests from the regulars, as they have never been offered these items. They were wonderful and we had a great time. It was sad to leave.

Home quickly to change and walk down to the Rose and Crown pub on Writtle Green, to meet up with Christine Hooker, a former special needs teacher from Rickstones School. Christine drove down an hour and a half from Norfolk to join us for dinner. Jenni Gratze also stopped by and it was two hours of non-stop chatter catching up with all the latest news. Realizing we were Americans, A local barfly stopped by our table and tried to give us American history lessons. He soon retreated when he found out Ed taught American history!