While we are in line, Big Ben rings to add an exclamation point to the incredible events we are about to experience. Upon entering, we are handed electronic wands that we place to our ears, and the sonorous voice of actor Jeremy Irons begins to describe the various sections and maze of alcoves that encompass the interior of this incredibly moving place. Hundreds of notable and famous people are interred here. We pass the tombs of monarchs like Henry VII (died 1509, five hundred years ago) and even Edward the Confessor (died January 1066!!) Later, we almost worship at the tomb of Elizabeth I (died 1603), perhaps the world’s most influential female of the entire second millennium. Underneath her is interred her tragic half-sister, Mary, with whom she competed for the throne. We are told this placement is not meant to demean Mary’s memory. Later, we visit the tombs of James I (who succeeded Elizabeth) and his mother, Mary Queen of Scots (another tragic competitor for Elizabeth’s throne). We stare wide-eyed at the “Coronation Chair”, upon which every monarch since Edward I of the late thirteenth century (see “Braveheart”) was crowned. It has been badly mistreated over the centuries: worn, spindly, with wood shaved and graffiti carved, but enormously moving. Eventually we come to “Poet’s Corner”, where many tombs and commemorative plaques are embedded in walls and floors. We found Burns and Kipling and Tennyson and Yeats and Jonson, and countless others. (NOTE I just thought of: is the fact that William Shaxpere of Stratford is NOT buried here of significance? An A-HA moment! He DOES have a plaque, though.) Arriving near the cathedral’s center, we salute the tomb of perhaps the second millennium’s most influential male, the famed scientist Isaac Newton. No mention of a falling apple. Finally, we bow at Britain’s flower-ringed Tomb of the Unknown Soldier ringed by striking red poppies. The finish to one of the most memorable two hours of our lives.
But it is not over! We stroll down “Bird in Cage Avenue,” making note of the wonderful homes that line it on the left, and of the handsome, bucolic, manicured St. James Park to the right, occupying an entire block. Eventually we swing a corner and spy the enormous and opulent Buckingham Palace. Milling about are thousands of people, many draped over the huge fountain in front. Busy traffic whizzes by. We are sure that the Queen is vacationing at Balmoral in Scotland. From here we can sight all the way down the park and spy St. Steven’s Tower, poking over the tress in the distance.
After enjoying this colorful setting, we walk south and pick up the “tube” (subway). Very clean, and no crowds. This takes us to the Tower of London, now enjoying renewed interest since this is the 500th anniversary of Henry VIII’s coronation. After a fish-and-chips lunch, we enter and hook up with an amusing tour guide dressed as a “yeoman” or “beef-eater.” We learn about the various gaols (jails) located here, and the famous people like Sir Walter Ralegh (correctly spelled) who were held or executed. We hear the story of the “Princes in the Tower,” apparently secretly done in by Richard III who regarded them as challengers to the throne. We saw the “White Tower,” built by William the Conquerer in the 1080’s! Due to long lines, we did not see the armor worn by Henry VIII or the Crown Jewels, but it has already been a long day and it is time to head for home. We leave the Tower with one last view of the Thames River and Tower Bridge looming overhead.
Special events this day are not finished. Steve will be taking us to his favorite “hangout”, the Endeavor, a pub where he meets his mates for the past 30 years. We’ve heard so much about it already, we feel we are members of its close knit crowd. Steve has for weeks told them he’s bringing in his American friends, and they welcome us with open arms. We are presented with several English ales, and listen as the friends kid each other and “take the Mickey out of each other”. There is a cameraderie. The Endeavor’s owner presents us with a bar rag, Adnams glass, and embroidered polo shirt! There are many shouts of joking protests from the regulars, as they have never been offered these items. They were wonderful and we had a great time. It was sad to leave.
Home quickly to change and walk down to the Rose and Crown pub on Writtle Green, to meet up with Christine Hooker, a former special needs teacher from Rickstones School. Christine drove down an hour and a half from Norfolk to join us for dinner. Jenni Gratze also stopped by and it was two hours of non-stop chatter catching up with all the latest news. Realizing we were Americans, A local barfly stopped by our table and tried to give us American history lessons. He soon retreated when he found out Ed taught American history!
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