Monday – Wednesday, August 10 – 12, 2009
It was an easy and pleasant train ride, and we fell asleep. After perhaps an hour-and-a-half we awoke to find peaked tile roofs and a multitude of chimney flues filling the vista as far as the eye could see. A few minutes later we arrived at the bustling Lime Street station. We had arrived at Liverpool!
Our friends Julie and Stewart arrived to rescue us and pick us up, and we commenced what must have been the most crowded several hours in human history. Stewart has the talent to drive in the Grand Prix, and also a thorough knowledge of the city and its history. We visited the remains of a church bombed out by the Blitz, and we saw the massive Liverpool Cathedral, the biggest (in terms of volume) in Britain. Then we parked at Albert Dock along the Mersey, and saw the enormous riverside areas that were laid to waste by German bombers. Liverpool was second only to London in loss of life, and only now are some of these desert areas being built up. You could sense the ghosts of sailors and immigrants past as you walked in front of the Old Custom's House.
We had a pleasant lunch at "Ha-Ha's" on Albert Dock where a teeny-bopper waitress complimented us on our accents. Albert Dock has been turned into a haven for Beatle's memorabilia, with a Beatle's Museum, quaint shops and cafes, and renovated warehouses that now sport pricey renovated apartments. After a walk along the shore, where we viewed the famous “Ferry Cross the Mersey,” we walked toward the City Center to begin the pilgrimage. First we stopped at Mathew Street in the inner city, where the famed Cavern Club is located. Baby boomers are aware that this was the home of the young Beatles. The buildings atop the underground Cavern Club were demolished in 1973, and the Cavern was partly destroyed and filled in. One of the most short-sighted projects in history! Years later, in order to cater to the thousands of tourists that were making the pilgrimage, the Cavern was excavated and restored, and we were pleased to experience it! Then we strolled through the city, looking at shops, and at sights made famous by the young Beatles. We patronized a pub, “The Philharmonic”, perhaps the most lavish ever, with incredible woodwork and marble fixtures. There are world famous urinals made out of marble in the mens room. Part of the experience is for tourists to photograph the beautiful architecture - after you make sure that the mens room is uncccupied! Here we were forced to have a Stella and Pimms.
Back in the car once again, we visited the boyhood homes of, first, Ringo Starr, then John Lennon, and Paul McCartney. All but Ringo's are jealously guarded by the National Trust. Finally, we found the boyhood home of George Harrison, for some reason not regarded as worthy of the Trust’s patronage. A big mistake that we hope is soon rectified. It was an electric feeling to wind through the narrow streets that led to the tiny row houses were Ringo, Paul, and George grew up. The home of John’s “Aunt Mimi”, on the other hand, was located in a beautiful suburban setting. The Internet, a built-in GPS, and Stewart’s and Julie’s “Blackberry’s” all helped us find these sites in a jiffy. Our Liverpool friends, like our Writtle friends Steve and Lyn, put forth a super-human effort.
Next we drove to the famous “Penny Lane” to be photographed near its signs (of course with Penny Lane playing on the car stereo). One end is a leafy, quiet neighborhood where Liverpool College is located, but on the other side of the humped bridge are shops and traffic. Alas, the firehouse and round-about are gone, and we saw no barbershop. Considering the number of Penny Lane signs that have been stolen, we were lucky to see any! We checked out John’s Quarrybank school, and the woodsy children’s home “Strawberry Field” (without an ‘s’) as well. Liverpool has its own achitecture and energy - it was a breath-taking afternoon!
A tunnel took us under the Mersey to “Birkenhead”, a suburb on the Mersey where Julie and Stewart lived. Thier house was located on a beautiful quiet street with rows of Victorian homes. Their three story beautifully renovated house is also home to "Dexter-Dog - thier lively black lab! We all piled in the mini-van and drove down to the Mersey to give Dexter a run on the sany beach along the port. A panoramic view of Liverpool from Merseyside illuminated the horizon. Back home Dexter showed us the back garden where we were supposed to continually throw his ball. Everyone, including Dexter, slept well after the long walks and adventures.
