Arriving in New York

We are back home now and are recovering from our "ship lag". We are enjoying going through our pictures and unpacking our few souvenirs. The cats are very happy we have returned, and they now take turns sitting on top of the car making sure we don't leave again. If you are just starting to read this Blog, make sure you start at the beginning of the Blog entries.
The Queen Mary 2 pulled into our Brooklyn Port about 3:30 and picked up the "Harbour Master" who escorted the ship into the Harbour with the Commodore. We were inching our way in at 12 knots and finally arrived at our final destination about 5:30am. When we arrived on the Deck 7 Promenade we saw the most beautiful view of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty with the sunrise reflecting on the skyline.
We opted to disembark ourselves with no assistance, which enabled us to leave the ship at 6:30. By 7:00 we secured our car, and were on the road again driving towards home through Brooklyn and Queens. 3 hours later we arrived home to be greeted by two large, lonely black cats. When people ask us "What is the favorite part of your trip?" we find it difficult to answer. Everything was our favorite part. Hands down the best part was visiting with our hosts and friends. Their hospitality, sense of humor, fantastic conversation, and vast historical knowledge amazed us and made us enjoy our entire visit. Visiting historical sites was just a bonus! We can't thank Lyn and Steve Parsons, and Julie and Stewart King enough for everything they did to make our vacation perfect! We are excited to have them visit us, and give them a special holiday in the great Northeast.
Thanks to all of you who religiously followed our Blog and sent messages while we were on our trip. We are excited to be home and plan our next Queen Mary2 excursion.
Cheers Mate!

Fly In The Ointment!

The third day out, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, Ed becomes seriously ill. It’s a good thing the QM2 has an outstanding medical department! The doctor performed a number of tests to make sure the ailment wasn’t the Noro-Virus or Swine Flu. If he had contracted these viruses he would have been quarantined! He is diagnosed with Acute Febrile Illness (urinary tract infection), and is forced to spend two days recovering in his stateroom. Nurse Donna frequented deck 7 to secure rations for the sick patient. When Ed was sleeping, Donna spent some time with her childhood friend Anne from South Carolina, who was the travel agent that arranged the details of this trip. In between spending time with Ed, Donna was able to work on the Blog and attend a few lectures and movies. There is a long list of activities to keep anyone occupied. Ed’s fever finally retreated and he was able to attend dinner last night with our dynamic table mates. Today he is much better and we plan on spending our last afternoon at a lecture from a Maritime Historian on the Legend of The Bermuda Triangle. Fortunately our Liner is not passing in that direction! It is also fortunate that we have outrun Hurricane Bill. Soon we will be passing a hundred miles East of Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket on our way to New York. We are currently approximately 41 degrees North, and 67 degrees West.

This will be our last Blog until we get home. We will be disembarking at 6:30 am and driving directly home via Queens and Brooklyn. We can’t wait to see our family, friends and cats. We have been blessed with a safe vacation, lifetime friendships and memories. We will be home to celebrate Jen and Matt's Anniversary, Jack's 3 month birthday, Eileen's birthday, and the celebration of the news of our new grandbaby to be with Therese and Ben. It has been a magical journey – and we will be unpacking and reminiscing about our many excursions. We will complete our Blog when we get home with an update on Ed’s health, and a proper tribute to our special friends across the pond!!

More Transatlantic News

Wednesday, August 19, 2009 - It is 7 AM and I am ensconced in my favorite breakfast alcove once again. A few joggers and walkers move past the floor-to-ceiling windows. Queen Mary 2 is pitching and rolling an unusual amount today, yet the weather is much improved from yesterday; there is some blue in the sky and moderate whitecaps, so I am unsure what is causing this rare (and actually not at all worrisome or sickening) movement. Perhaps the brisk wind is the culprit, little improved from yesterday.

During “normal” hours it is impossible to find a free alcove seat here, as they are extremely desirable. But at this ungodly hour there are many available for “early birds.” So here I am. This is one of the things I’ll miss most on Sunday when I leave this tub.

Last night was a wonderful evening. Great dinner conversation from our New York City-area friends Joel, Annette, Marcia, and Rich, again almost all retirees from the world of education. We had earlier made a special request to the maitre ‘d to sit with them on our return trip, as dinners with them on the cruise east were so enjoyable. Luckily, the QM2 was able to accommodate us. Our dinners are very entertaining with non-stop laughter! Rich is a frequent cruiser, and a part-time travel agent, and always gives us good tips on enriching our experience here. Joel is a season-ticket holder at Citi Field with the New York Mets, and keeps me up-to-date. Unfortunately, last night’s report from him that third baseman David Wright was beaned with a pitch and may be out the remainder of the season (along with the rest of the starting line-up this sorry season) is the most depressing news I’ve received this entire voyage. Fortunately the good news far outweighs the bad this month!

We then attended last night’s performance. The Royal Cunard Dancers and Singers put on a spectacular review of Motown hits. Then came the featured performer, Broadway singer Jeri Sager. She is a brassy, high energy, younger, prettier version of Liza Minelli, with a slate of top roles to her credit: Fontaine in “Les Miserables” and Grizzibella in “Cats,” and in “Swing” and “Evita.” Thus we were treated to alternatively sensitive and high energy songs like “Memory”, “Caberet,” and “I Dreamed a Dream.” Possibly the best performance of the cruise. We will again see her perform at the final evening’s show.

Back on the Queen Mary 2 Heading Westbound

Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - There is a very stiff breeze blowing on promenade deck. Once again, its boards are being hosed, the windows squeegeed. A tiny contingent of walkers and joggers are starting to stir. My suggestion card from our first crossing must have been read! No Blondie or disco music this time. On the PA is some delightful, soft classical piano music. And once again, I am ensconced in my glass alcove in King’s Court Lotus, cup of Cunard coffee (not bad) at hand. Now, however, I face away from sunrise, and back toward our beloved England, wishing we could have stayed longer. It was a magical time.

Yes. We are back on the Queen Mary 2, heading for home, to arrive in Brooklyn in five-and-a-half days. To my left, Land’s End and the rugged, stark beauty of Cornwall, perhaps to be visited on a future trip. To our right, France, whose lights and coast we thought we may have sighted in the dark last night. In one sense our return will be slightly easier. Sailing west creates a 25 hour day, and now one sets ones timepiece back an hour each night before retiring. More time for lectures, films, shows, reading, blogging, and EATING. Cunards fantastic selection of desserts are especially inviting!

Back to the Queen Mary 2

Monday, August 17, 2009 - Our last day in England. Queen Mary 2 leaves Southampton at 5 PM (that’s 18:00 in British time!) so we will be on the road for part of today. It’s back to work for Steve and Lyn, so we are all up early. Steve will drive us to Waterloo train station in London before he starts his shift, for which we are grateful. We travel through the South East part of London past the famous Millennium Dome (where we pass over the International Dateline at 0 degrees Longitude), and the Isle of Dogs and Tobacco Dock (where the famous East India Tea Company had their docks. With Steve’s knowledge of London, we are there lickety-split. Our baggage is deposited on the sidewalk. The separation is not tearless. We are VERY sad to leave.

Waterloo is big, and we have a bit of trouble finding our way around. But Donna is a savvy traveler, and we purchase tickets for a train that leaves in twenty minutes. I leave a tall coffee on one of our suitcases, and when Donna moves another bag, the coffee splatters to the floor. Not a great start. We are sorry to leave a huge puddle in Waterloo station for janitors to clean up, but we have no choice. Our train is ready to board! We climb onto the train, and soon we are heading out of London, looking at the lush green countryside.. The rest of our hour-and-a-half trip is fortunately less eventful. While passing through Winchester, we scan the skyline through the trees in an effort to spy the spire of the famous cathedral, but are unsuccessful.

At Southampton, we flag down a large taxi, needed for our luggage, and in ten minutes are at the Cunard terminal. QM2 doesn’t embark passengers until noon, so we read for an hour. We know our way around now. Soon we are in our stateroom, again 5073, and we are unpacking. Then we move to promenade deck, plop down onto a couple of deck chairs, and watch as QM2 majestically backs out of her berth and begins to move down the channel. Many on board have brought their bottles of champagne on deck to celebrate this event. With champagne in hand, we are on our transatlantic voyage home.

Writtle Green Tour and Lunch

Sunday, August 16, 2009 – Monday, August 17, 2009 - A sad couple of days. Our stay in England is fast coming to an end. But there are still some pleasant times and surprises to come! Sunday morning our six-year-old friend Harry takes us on a tour of Writtle. We stroll along some of the streets in town, look into a few of the shop windows, visit an ancient church, and watch the many ducks on the village green’s pond. Extremely picturesque. We would love to live here. It’s brick or stucco for English homes, not wood like we use in America. Their properties are set off by six-foot brick or wooden walls, often covered in ivy, providing a sense of privacy, and much time is spent on lawn and garden maintenance. What we see is quaint and beautiful. After a while, Harry leads us back to the sidewalk, and we saunter past the Rose and Crown pub, and on to home. A wonderful morning.

Many of Steve and Lyn’s friends have asked us to come by for Sunday coffee. They are all great folks, and we’d love to, but we are out of time. Steve and Lyn pledged weeks ago to escort us for a visit to the home of Iain and Sheena Munro in Chelmsford for lunch and drinks. We had already previously met them at the Endeavor and at Steve and Lyn’s garden party. Iain and Sheena are extremely gracious hosts, and have become experts at hosting such luncheons. What’s more, their home is spectacular, with a large yard (“garden”) for England standards, and it is superbly laid out and lush with vegetation, flowers, bird feeders, and water features. We spend several hours at a huge round table under a back yard awning. The food and alcohol were superb, but the banter was even better. Steve and Iain are constantly engaged in good-natured kidding, often over their English vs. Scottish backgrounds, and never have we been so entertained. It seemed like Iain and Sheena enjoyed making new American friends as much as we enjoyed making new Scottish ones. We were treated to a feast including homemade breads, gourmet entrees, homemade champagne ice cream, and a final testing of some true Scotch, and some 7.5% ale. Reason enough to stay on these islands! All too soon, though, it was time to leave. Iain and Sheena have turned entertaining into an art, and their home an incredible canvas, We are sad to depart.

We return to Steve and Lyn’s to pack. Considering all that we have purchased, that will be a challenge. We share a last few drinks. We watch a final TV show (“Waterways”?), where an English commentator canoes down a stream, and talks, somewhat humorously, of the history and culture of the region through which it passes. Today he paddles the “Lee”, which flows through Essex County, the Olympic site, and into the Thames. A wonderful show I hope is picked up by PBS. Other shows we’ve seen the last two weeks are intriguing as well. One show was a full depiction of how a thatched roof was made from start to finish. Another show follows a team of London exterminators and their rat terrier “Charlie” as they chase bees, bugs, and, yes, rats. How the camera is able to keep up with Charlie as he races like a fiend under furniture and into cabinets and cellars, and actually films close-ups of the dog shaking rats to death, is beyond me. Another show is a tiny bit like Donald Trump’s “The Apprentice” called ”Lion’s Den”. Folks who have ideas for businesses or inventions are given the chance to pitch their suggestions to a high-powered panel of successful, well-known entrepreneurs, all of whom do the Simon Cowell bit. However, if in the end they feel the idea has a chance of success, one or more panel members will offer to financially help get it off the ground. Another great possibility for American TV! Then it’s time to talk some more about future visits on both sides of the pond, and we turn in. It would be impossible or us to give a proper tribute to all our wonderful hosts and friends in England. The best part of our trip was the chance to be with our special friends (old and new), which was even more moving than any historical site or tourist attraction!

Winston Churchill’s “Chartwell”

Saturday, August 15, 2009 - Still another climax in a fortnight of climaxes. Steve will be driving Donna and Ed to “Chartwell,” the country home of Winston Churchill in the Weald of Kent. We feel special, riding in a handsome London cab through the most beautiful countryside in the world. Kent is incredible, and one exhausts all superlatives in describing it. No wonder Churchill chose to live here.

Many people have come to pay homage to Churchill, and soon it will be crowded. We catch a light lunch and coffee at the snack bar, and then begin to walk the long path to the mansion. Along the way, we see plants and ponds created by the great man himself, a magnificent accomplishment. Eventually we reach the line at the front door and after a short wait we are ushered in. Steve notes the Masonic pillars framing the front door, the significance of which none of the tour guides are aware.

Large cards are given to each visitor to explain the mansion. Unfortunately Ed can’t read his card because he lost his spectacles somewhere on the long, winding pathway to the mansion. Never was such a loss so ill-timed. Ouch!

We are ushered in to Churchill’s large study, ancient beams overhead, from which is hung a medieval banner. We see Churchill’s many books, and the long stand-up desk he used to work. Finally there is his huge traditional desk, a table really, in front of the window, giving him a spectacular view down upon the Kent countryside. Many of his books were written here. What’s more, the Free World was saved here.
Next we move to the living room. It is huge and impressive. Fireplace, groups of plush chairs, paintings by Churchill himself. One can easily see the family at ease here.

Upstairs to Lady Churchill’s chamber. Large and comfortable, vintage 1930’s. It’s beautiful. Next we gravitate to rooms containing Churchill medals, uniforms, and gifts from foreign leaders, all labeled and explained. We find it odd that this is all found in the house when perhaps it should be displayed in a separate building, especially as it is very crowded in these rooms. Nevertheless, it is mightily impressive, and there are few people who could match these accomplishments.

Steve’s favorite room is the dining room, or, as he calls it, the “breakfast nook.” And what a nook it is! It is as big as the living room. A large round dining table and chairs are located near the great windows that look out at the huge lawn and the rolling Kent countryside. We can see Churchill spending hours here with family and world statesmen, and we can smell the cigars. Churchill even painted himself and his family here! We can see why Steve likes it.

Next we see the kitchen, frozen in time in the 1930’s, and an exhibit on Churchill’s life, and then we exit the house. We walk down the sloping lawn to Churchill’s studio, set up as if Churchill would be arriving to finish a painting soon. We tour the incredible gardens, all surrounded by tall walls whose bricks were laid by Churchill himself, the pastime he chose for relaxation! The garden sports the largest selection of roses, and the biggest thistles imaginable! Ed finally finds his glasses that were turned into the main gate, just in time to look around the book shop. Then it is time to go. Never have we visited a more moving site. Steve drives us back to Writtle. But the day is far from over!

Tonight will be a party night! Steve and Lyn have invited a large contingent of friends to meet us after dinner. Some of them hail from Steve’s Masonic Lodge, and others are neighbors or fellow customers at the “Endeavor,” Steve’s favorite pub. Both Steve and Lyn, as well as their beautiful and wonderful daughters Emma and Nicki, have worked very hard to arrange for food and drink and cater tonight’s soiree, and Ed is looking forward to testing the various English beers being set up in the garden (yard). Young Harry helps decorate the garden with innumerable British and American flags, and helps with all aspects of party preperation.

The party is a smash hit! All are smiling and cracking jokes, and they put us Americans at ease. The party is terrific, and we will never forget the great time we had, all enhanced by the handsome home that Lyn and Steve maintain, and by the picture-perfect garden Steve has created to the rear. The weather blesses us, too, as it has almost this entire trip. We know how lucky we are, and enjoy every minute of the wonderful hospitality, friendship, food, and conversation. It’s been quite a day, one that we will not soon forget!

Westminster Abbey and the Infamous “Endeavor” Pub

While we are in line, Big Ben rings to add an exclamation point to the incredible events we are about to experience. Upon entering, we are handed electronic wands that we place to our ears, and the sonorous voice of actor Jeremy Irons begins to describe the various sections and maze of alcoves that encompass the interior of this incredibly moving place. Hundreds of notable and famous people are interred here. We pass the tombs of monarchs like Henry VII (died 1509, five hundred years ago) and even Edward the Confessor (died January 1066!!) Later, we almost worship at the tomb of Elizabeth I (died 1603), perhaps the world’s most influential female of the entire second millennium. Underneath her is interred her tragic half-sister, Mary, with whom she competed for the throne. We are told this placement is not meant to demean Mary’s memory. Later, we visit the tombs of James I (who succeeded Elizabeth) and his mother, Mary Queen of Scots (another tragic competitor for Elizabeth’s throne). We stare wide-eyed at the “Coronation Chair”, upon which every monarch since Edward I of the late thirteenth century (see “Braveheart”) was crowned. It has been badly mistreated over the centuries: worn, spindly, with wood shaved and graffiti carved, but enormously moving. Eventually we come to “Poet’s Corner”, where many tombs and commemorative plaques are embedded in walls and floors. We found Burns and Kipling and Tennyson and Yeats and Jonson, and countless others. (NOTE I just thought of: is the fact that William Shaxpere of Stratford is NOT buried here of significance? An A-HA moment! He DOES have a plaque, though.) Arriving near the cathedral’s center, we salute the tomb of perhaps the second millennium’s most influential male, the famed scientist Isaac Newton. No mention of a falling apple. Finally, we bow at Britain’s flower-ringed Tomb of the Unknown Soldier ringed by striking red poppies. The finish to one of the most memorable two hours of our lives.

But it is not over! We stroll down “Bird in Cage Avenue,” making note of the wonderful homes that line it on the left, and of the handsome, bucolic, manicured St. James Park to the right, occupying an entire block. Eventually we swing a corner and spy the enormous and opulent Buckingham Palace. Milling about are thousands of people, many draped over the huge fountain in front. Busy traffic whizzes by. We are sure that the Queen is vacationing at Balmoral in Scotland. From here we can sight all the way down the park and spy St. Steven’s Tower, poking over the tress in the distance.

After enjoying this colorful setting, we walk south and pick up the “tube” (subway). Very clean, and no crowds. This takes us to the Tower of London, now enjoying renewed interest since this is the 500th anniversary of Henry VIII’s coronation. After a fish-and-chips lunch, we enter and hook up with an amusing tour guide dressed as a “yeoman” or “beef-eater.” We learn about the various gaols (jails) located here, and the famous people like Sir Walter Ralegh (correctly spelled) who were held or executed. We hear the story of the “Princes in the Tower,” apparently secretly done in by Richard III who regarded them as challengers to the throne. We saw the “White Tower,” built by William the Conquerer in the 1080’s! Due to long lines, we did not see the armor worn by Henry VIII or the Crown Jewels, but it has already been a long day and it is time to head for home. We leave the Tower with one last view of the Thames River and Tower Bridge looming overhead.

Special events this day are not finished. Steve will be taking us to his favorite “hangout”, the Endeavor, a pub where he meets his mates for the past 30 years. We’ve heard so much about it already, we feel we are members of its close knit crowd. Steve has for weeks told them he’s bringing in his American friends, and they welcome us with open arms. We are presented with several English ales, and listen as the friends kid each other and “take the Mickey out of each other”. There is a cameraderie. The Endeavor’s owner presents us with a bar rag, Adnams glass, and embroidered polo shirt! There are many shouts of joking protests from the regulars, as they have never been offered these items. They were wonderful and we had a great time. It was sad to leave.

Home quickly to change and walk down to the Rose and Crown pub on Writtle Green, to meet up with Christine Hooker, a former special needs teacher from Rickstones School. Christine drove down an hour and a half from Norfolk to join us for dinner. Jenni Gratze also stopped by and it was two hours of non-stop chatter catching up with all the latest news. Realizing we were Americans, A local barfly stopped by our table and tried to give us American history lessons. He soon retreated when he found out Ed taught American history!

The City of London

Friday, August 14, 2009 - Is it possible to match the wonder and excitement of the days that have so far characterized our trip? Today proved that it was! Our friends Lyn and Steve are arranging a tour of London for us. Steve will drive us to the city in his classy black London cab (much bigger and cleaner and far more handsome than American taxis). There is NO ONE who knows the city better than he, and past fares like Michael Caine, Richard Branson, and Tina Turner will attest to that. All showed themselves to be wonderful people. But Steve must report to work. As Donna and Ed’s family say when they are in the Adirondacks: “Not all of us here are on vacation!” He’ll take us to London and drop us off.

We drive south to the city. First we sight the “Millennium Dome”, its huge, canvas-like roof seemingly suspended from giant gold pole-like girders poking through its perimeter. Downriver, we spy the “Millennium Eye”, a gigantic Ferris wheel that sits along the Thames River near city center. We pass through an enormous area of great cranes and earth-moving equipment. Piles of dirt seem to blot out the sky, and not far away, a stadium is taking shape, looking like a child’s string “cats cradle”. London is obviously well-along in its preparations for the 2012 Olympics. Even in its “raw” state, it is incredibly impressive.

Our drive continues. We pass through “Whitechapel”, the lair of Jack the Ripper a century-and-a-quarter ago, still a neighborhood of narrow streets, crime, and poverty. We also pass the ancient London Hospital where the “Elephant Man” lived, still in operation though very much outdated. Steve deposits the three of us next to the Houses of Parliament and regretfully leaves. But we are lucky. Our wonderful friend, his wife Lyn, remains with us, and ensures that our day is an incredible one. It will be impossible to repay her for all she has done.

First we enjoy a coffee and scone at a tiny shop across the street. It is here we are immediately corrected. Big Ben is the BELL. It is mounted in St. Steven’s Tower, the Parliament landmark. We feel we now have special knowledge that few tourists have!
Our cameras at the ready, we step to the bridge and snap some photos of the Thames and the famed buildings that border it. Then, re-passing what is now our favorite coffee shop, we turn and walk up the avenue to the seat of power, Downing Street. Though tourists are understandably prevented from entering, Ed gets snapped at the gate, with the Prime Minister’s home, Number 10, and the Chancellor of the Exchequer’s home, Number 11, in the background. It’s fairly quiet. European governments and businesses typically break for vacation in August. We continue walking past Winston Churchill’s “War Rooms” where he bunkered down and orchestrated Allied strategies.

Returning to the corner, we view St. Margaret’s, the “official” church of Parliament. Looming behind it is Westminster Abbey, an enormous cathedral. The admission price is a stiff fourteen pounds, and we hesitate, wondering if it will be worth it. It was. It would have been a serious mistake not to have entered, and it was worth a HUNDRED and fourteen pounds!

Colchester Castle

Thursday, August 13, 2009 – Today we decide to take the bus to Colchester, because there is a train strike today in East Anglia. The trip takes us through many villages, and I am able to show Ed all of my old haunts. The bus travels past the house where I lived, along with grocery stores, banks, pubs, and Rickstones School where I used to work. We were enjoying the ride when the bus broke down halfway through our trip in Witham where I used to work. The stop over enabled me to shop in my old favorite stores and charity shops (bought a lovely linen skirt for 2 pounds!) and live my “Deja-vu” experience. A new bus picked us up, and 3 ½ hours later we arrived at Colchester!

Colchester was the effective capital of south-east England when the Romans invaded in AD 45 and established the first permanent Roman colony. You can still see the Roman walls and surviving town gate – the largest in Britain. During the Middle Ages, Colchester developed into an important weaving and clock making centre. You can still see the original tall houses and steep narrow streets from the Flemish weavers who settled here in the 16th century. Colchester was besieged for 11 weeks during the English Civil War, before being captured by Cromwell’s troops. We quickly dine at a French café along the main street, and walk to the Colchester Castle Museum. This castle is the oldest and largest Norman keep still standing in England. It was built in 1076 on the platform of a Roman temple dedicated to Claudius, using stones and tiles from other Roman buildings. We strolled through the well tended and colorful manicured gardens spanning acres of green pastures, flowers and a pond behind the castle. Our bus trip home was much faster – and we were soon relaxing in Lyn and Steve’s back garden with a cold beverage.

Traveling from Merseyside to Essex

Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - Sadly, it is time to leave the north of England. Our friends Julie and Stewart provided for some unforgettable days in Liverpool and Chester, and we hate to depart. But we catch a break! They are driving south to Dover and the Channel coast, and crossing to France for a vacation (or “holiday” as it’s called here). They offer to drive us directly to Writtle! British trains are nice, but they are also expensive. Julie and Stewart have saved us quite a sum. What’s more, we get some wonderful conversation, and lots of commentary on the culture and history of the locales through which we pass. No railroad provides that!

Julie rustles up a nifty breakfast to get us off to a good start. Next to our plates we find an envelope that obviously contains a greeting card. Surprise! We had been enjoying our stay so much we had forgotten our fourteenth anniversary! Shortly, we pile into their vehicle and commence our journey south. Just outside of Liverpool, the cell phone rings. A call from America. One immediately thinks an emergency. Not this time. First comes the obligatory anniversary wishes. Seconds later, Ed learns that his daughter is going to make him a grandfather for the first time! A wonderful day. But wasn’t my daughter still in elementary school? Where did the time go? How could this be? Incredible news, and a memorable day.

We merge onto an “M” road, the first ever in Britain, the equivalent of an interstate highway in America (by the way, why are there interstate highways in Alaska and Hawaii?). We sail through the rolling English countryside, filled with charming hedgerows and sheep. We pass the famed battlefield at Naseby, from the 1640’s and the English Civil War. Unlike many American battlefields: no traffic, tourists, souvenir hawkers, or modern businesses. It remains as Cromwell would have seen it. Apparently the same for another battlefield nearby. This one is Bosworth, even older, where Henry Tudor defeated Richard at the end of the War of the Roses (which name is a Shakespearean invention), and became Harry VII. Englishmen far away didn’t have to wait days or weeks to learn of this famous victory. The eccentric English version of Nostrodomus, the peasant Robert Nixon, re-enacted this battle then in real time during a sudden fit while hoeing a field, and declared Henry the winner before even Henry knew!

We arrive in Writtle after a long drive. Loyal “Scotsmen” like Julie and Stewart seem surprised and feign chagrin when they are told that they are now in the birthplace of Robert the Bruce. We all pay homage to the great Scottish patriot. The home of heather and the Enlightenment of the eighteenth century is added to our list of future attractions. What’s more, Stewart has given us some incredible tutoring on and sampling of Scotch whiskey, and greatly expands our appreciation of that wonderful potion. The peat and water of Old Caledonia, we find, plays a big role in the production of this venerable drink. We will never be able to repay Stewart adequately for this fascinating session.

Later that evening, we walk a half-mile to the center of Writtle to the “Rose and Crown,” a wonderful pub. Its ham, eggs, and “chips” (French fries) are locally famous, and “nuff said” about its special collection of English beers. There we meet our longtime friend Jenny Gratze, whose Fulbright exchange with Donna in 1992 prompted all that has come after. It was great to see her, talk over old times, and bring each other up-to-date on events. Jenny will be leaving in a few days for a one-to-two year teaching post in Qatar, in the Persian Gulf. They will love Jenny as America did! Back to the home of our good friends Steve and Lyn for a couple of drinks, and a night of sleep. It is good to see them again. And it has been a wonderful day.

Roman City of Chester

Chester is the Eastern most Roman town located in the heart of the UK about 197 Miles/317 KM from London,not far from Liverpool, and the Welsh border. The name Chester is derived from the Latin term for a Camp 'Castra'. Chester has the oldest race course, the Largest Roman Amphitheatre, the only surviving rock cut Roman Shrine in the Country. and the most complete set of Town Walls in the Country. Under a tudor law it is illegal for Welshmen to enter Chester after nightfall. Also the first person to walk across Chesters Grosvenor Bridge was a young Princess Victoria (in 1819) - later to be Queen.

Chester Racecourse is Britains Oldest sporting venue (in continual use) with the first race occurring in 1540. We parked at the track and walked along the outskirts of the city centre along its ancient Roman walls. We exstensively toured Chester Cathedral when we got to the city centre. Chester Cathedral is a truly remarkable building, with a history spanning almost two thousand years. According to legend, a prehistoric Druid temple existed on this site, which was succeeded by a Roman temple dedicated to Apollo. When Christianity became the state religion of Rome in the fourth century AD, the pagan temple then become a Christian church.

The shopping in Chester was a walk back in time. Modern and traditional shops on two levels in ancient Tudor buildings. On the way out of town we stopped in a Pasty shop for a takeaway lunch, and sat on the grounds of the racetrack to finish our meal.The Cornish pasty formed an important part of many working Cornishman's diet, be they miners, farmers, or fishermen. The men folk for the most part needed a packed lunch which would travel well, with easy inexpensive ingredients. Shaped like a half circle, the crusty part on the round side would form a handle, and would be thrown away because of the worker's dirty hands. Now the crust of the pasty is the best part.

Traveling back to Mersey we took a side trip into the North East corner of Wales to add another country to our ininerary. Dinner was a BBQ at home, and Julie and Stewart's friends Kate and Cambell joined us with thier son Alfie. Kate and Cambell taught at Rickstones school where I taught in 1992-93. Great end to a wonderful Liverpool experience!

The trip ended with a quick trip

Liverpool and Merseyside

Monday – Wednesday, August 10 – 12, 2009
It was an easy and pleasant train ride, and we fell asleep. After perhaps an hour-and-a-half we awoke to find peaked tile roofs and a multitude of chimney flues filling the vista as far as the eye could see. A few minutes later we arrived at the bustling Lime Street station. We had arrived at Liverpool!

Our friends Julie and Stewart arrived to rescue us and pick us up, and we commenced what must have been the most crowded several hours in human history. Stewart has the talent to drive in the Grand Prix, and also a thorough knowledge of the city and its history. We visited the remains of a church bombed out by the Blitz, and we saw the massive Liverpool Cathedral, the biggest (in terms of volume) in Britain. Then we parked at Albert Dock along the Mersey, and saw the enormous riverside areas that were laid to waste by German bombers. Liverpool was second only to London in loss of life, and only now are some of these desert areas being built up. You could sense the ghosts of sailors and immigrants past as you walked in front of the Old Custom's House.

We had a pleasant lunch at "Ha-Ha's" on Albert Dock where a teeny-bopper waitress complimented us on our accents. Albert Dock has been turned into a haven for Beatle's memorabilia, with a Beatle's Museum, quaint shops and cafes, and renovated warehouses that now sport pricey renovated apartments. After a walk along the shore, where we viewed the famous “Ferry Cross the Mersey,” we walked toward the City Center to begin the pilgrimage. First we stopped at Mathew Street in the inner city, where the famed Cavern Club is located. Baby boomers are aware that this was the home of the young Beatles. The buildings atop the underground Cavern Club were demolished in 1973, and the Cavern was partly destroyed and filled in. One of the most short-sighted projects in history! Years later, in order to cater to the thousands of tourists that were making the pilgrimage, the Cavern was excavated and restored, and we were pleased to experience it! Then we strolled through the city, looking at shops, and at sights made famous by the young Beatles. We patronized a pub, “The Philharmonic”, perhaps the most lavish ever, with incredible woodwork and marble fixtures. There are world famous urinals made out of marble in the mens room. Part of the experience is for tourists to photograph the beautiful architecture - after you make sure that the mens room is uncccupied! Here we were forced to have a Stella and Pimms.

Back in the car once again, we visited the boyhood homes of, first, Ringo Starr, then John Lennon, and Paul McCartney. All but Ringo's are jealously guarded by the National Trust. Finally, we found the boyhood home of George Harrison, for some reason not regarded as worthy of the Trust’s patronage. A big mistake that we hope is soon rectified. It was an electric feeling to wind through the narrow streets that led to the tiny row houses were Ringo, Paul, and George grew up. The home of John’s “Aunt Mimi”, on the other hand, was located in a beautiful suburban setting. The Internet, a built-in GPS, and Stewart’s and Julie’s “Blackberry’s” all helped us find these sites in a jiffy. Our Liverpool friends, like our Writtle friends Steve and Lyn, put forth a super-human effort.

Next we drove to the famous “Penny Lane” to be photographed near its signs (of course with Penny Lane playing on the car stereo). One end is a leafy, quiet neighborhood where Liverpool College is located, but on the other side of the humped bridge are shops and traffic. Alas, the firehouse and round-about are gone, and we saw no barbershop. Considering the number of Penny Lane signs that have been stolen, we were lucky to see any! We checked out John’s Quarrybank school, and the woodsy children’s home “Strawberry Field” (without an ‘s’) as well. Liverpool has its own achitecture and energy - it was a breath-taking afternoon!

A tunnel took us under the Mersey to “Birkenhead”, a suburb on the Mersey where Julie and Stewart lived. Thier house was located on a beautiful quiet street with rows of Victorian homes. Their three story beautifully renovated house is also home to "Dexter-Dog - thier lively black lab! We all piled in the mini-van and drove down to the Mersey to give Dexter a run on the sany beach along the port. A panoramic view of Liverpool from Merseyside illuminated the horizon. Back home Dexter showed us the back garden where we were supposed to continually throw his ball. Everyone, including Dexter, slept well after the long walks and adventures.

Trinity Church

Later we shopped in the many quaint shops. Then we meandered over to the River Avon, a picturesque stream filled with vacationers on long narrow canal boats, which seems to us a wonderful way to vacation that perhaps we should introduce in the United States. After a pleasant stroll we reached Trinity Church, near whose alter "The Bard" is buried, along with family members. The church, undergoing a major restoration, is spectacular, and we speculate that perhaps the many construction projects in town are preparing Stratford for the 2016 observance of the 400th Anniversary of Shaxpere's death. After the church we had drinks at "The Duck", an historic pub along the Avon, filled with photos of famous English actors. Richard Burton looks down at our table. Donna was impressed with the picture of her favorite British actor Charles Dance. Here, also, Donna was introduced to "Pimms", a lightly alcoholic posh summer beverage sweetened with lemonade and fresh fruit. America badly needs to add this drink to its offering. Our party celebrated the previous day's 40th anniversary of the release of the Album "Abbey Road". Steve, an accomplished guitarist, is more aware than anyone of the LP's artistic merits, and his comments add to our appreciation.
Later we joined a ghost tour in a Tudor building once featured on the British version of "Ghost Hunters", but we failed to see any spirits! Tired and having walked off those calories, we turned in for a sound sleep.
This year is the 500th Anniversary of the coronation of Henry the VIII, and Harry and History are on display everywhere. It doesn't get any better than this!
Tommorow, a ten minute walk to catch a mid-morning train bound for Liverpool.

Shakepeare's Birthplace

Next morning, the Inn offered choices of a Continental breakfast of fruit, pastries, yogurt, and cereal, or a traditional English breakfast of sausage links(bangors), slice of ham, fried egg, grilled tomato, mushrooms, baked beans, and toast (individually provided on a special rack, rather than lying on a plate). We hope that walking through Stratford's carnival-like streets will burn at least some of these calories! It was today that we visited Shaxpere's famous birthplace (one block from our Inn) a fascinating look back at the sixteenth century, along with it's wonderful grounds, and we viewed snippets of plays performed in the garden.There a cute young red-haired actress made Steve one of her accomplices in a brief look at what may have been perhaps "The Merry Wives of Windsor". When the red-haired character's rival called her a "Canker-blossom" for nuzzling Steve, I knew I would be able to double check the play's title when I got home. It's one of Shakespeare's most famous insults!

Stratford Upon Avon

Shakespeare Country! Saturday and Sunday August 8-9th, 2009. We spent the weekend at Stratford Upon Avon! If William Shaxpere of Stratford did indeed write Shakespeare, you can quickly see why he was so inspired. The rolling, picturesque countryside of Warickshire would trigger the craetivity of God's greatest dullard, much less someone of great talent. After a lengthy and tedious trip due to much construction and traffic (I felt bad for our wonderful driver, Steve, who drives a London cab for a living and didn't need to do this on his weekend!), we checked into the "White Swan", parts of which date to around the end of the sixteenth century. It is said that Shakespeare himself used to purchase his bread from the original bakery housed in this building. Ed read in the spectacularly-paneled sitting room beside a fireplace built at the time of James1. The book? Bill Bryson's new biography of William Shakespeare. It was a wonderful effort (it should be titled "The Life and Times of..."), but it didn't convince me!
On Saturday evening, we attended a performance at the "Courtyard Theatre" of "Julius Caesar" bt The Royal Shakespeare Compant, a very impressive, intimate (despite its fairly large size) house, one of three venues used by the RSC. Its biggest and newest theatre is now undergoing a major refit. Their offering was a mix of a bit of modern technology and traditional Shakespeare staging, just right in our view. The title sctor deserved an Oscar for a wonderful, protracted, agonizing death (et tu Brute').

Visiting Eileen's friend Nikki

Today we went around to Nikki Parsons house to have tea and meet her adorable son Harry! Nikki was Eileen's best friend when she lived in England. 16 years ago Eileen and Nikki celebrated their 10th birthday together. We were very excited to have a demonstration of Harry's lego treasures and "Ben Ten" toy collection. We spent a lot of time reminiscing and laughing about Nikki and Eileen's escapades from years ago.

Cambridge and The River Cam

Friday, August 7, 2009
Our whirlwind tour of the highlights of Britain has begun! Today our wonderful hostess Lyn drove us to Cambridge to explore that world famous university, this year celebrating its 800th anniversary.
We drove to a “park and ride” not far outside the Albany-sized city. There we boarded a double-decker city bus for the remainder of the trip to Cambridge. We were dropped in a bustling town filled with shops and shoppers. Shortly we found a sightseeing bus and climbed aboard for a magnificent tour. We saw fields near the city center where the rules of cricket were developed. Nearby, atop a venerable building, an iron cricketeer was demonstrating his swing in a unique weathervane. This sport is now a touchy subject for not-so-jolly England. Its team is looking weak against a powerful Australian squad in the “Ashes” tournament, so named because in a much earlier competition, dejected Britishers burned the wickets and placed the ashes in an urn that is now the tournament’s trophy What’s more, the team’s leading player injured himself during horseplay while on a trip to the U.S., and he may not be 100%.
On a nearby field, the rules for English football (soccer) were also refined. The size of the goal was set at the distance between the trees that lined the field! We rode along the River Cam and saw the “punters” poling on the narrow stream.
Our bus took us past a nearly thousand-year-old round church, one of only several in Britain, built by the Knights Templar after their return from the Crusades, and we saw the small leafy park where John Milton wrote some of “Paradise Lost.” Near the end of the tour, we viewed the American cemetery where the World War II dead from our Air Force are buried, and where a monument to the missing, such as Glenn Miller and Joseph Kennedy, can be found. Later we shopped in one of Britain’s high class stores, “John Lewis.”
We had lunch in one of the town oldest pubs, the “Eagle”. There, during World War II, British and American pilots used lipstick and lighters to mark their names in the ceiling. In the corner where we ate, Crick and Watson discussed their ideas and research in the early 1950’s, so it can be said that DNA was discovered here! We are sure the incredible “Greene King” IPA was the source of their inspiration!
We hated to cross the bridge over the River Cam as we left the city. It was terrific! Tonight we went to dinner at the "Queen's Head" Pub. A very posh and gourmet restaurant outside of Writtle located on a beautiful stream. A wonderful meal with great friends!

Traveling to Writtle

We left Portsmouth and traveled by train to Waterloo Station in London. Our good mate Steve picked us up in his cab, and we additionally picked up his wife Lyn and daughter Emma from work in London. We traveled the 30 miles to Writtle via the A12 "dual carriageway" where we passed the new construction of the 2012 Olympic Stadium and surrounding sites. We had a wonderful dinner and relaxed in Steve and Lyn Parson's beautiful English garden amongst the Koi fish pond, bonsai trees and amazing fragrant flowers. Ed has discovered his new favorite beer is Greene King IPA. Much of the evening was spent talking about stories from previous visits.

Maritime Museums and Harbor Cruise

Next we toured a couple of the museums on site, including one that honored the incredible career of Lord Nelson, and another that contained one exhibit only: an enormous sail from “Victory’s” foremast that saw action at Trafalgar, filled with holes and tears from the battle. It is treated as if it were a piece of the Holy Cross, and it should be.

Within sight of the “Warrior”, which is still an impressive-looking threat after a century and a half, is “Gunwharf Quay”, a large and wonderful collection of harbor-side outlet shops, where, oddly, one can find many American stores like “Claire’s,” “Oneida,” the “Gap,” and “Starbucks,” as well as famed British institutions like “Boots” pharmacy and “Marks and Spencer,” equivalent to perhaps Marshall’s. The “Spinnaker” is there, a huge new monument in a fanciful interpretation of the shape of a triangular sail, which has an observation deck looking out over the harbor. Since it has a glass floor, we avoided its challenge, and took a harbor cruise instead, where we were introduced to some of the frigates, destroyers, and supply ships of Her Majesty’s Royal Navy, as well as all three of her aircraft carriers, including the latest in a long line of historic flat tops dubbed the “Ark Royal.”

We finished our day with a fish and chips dinner at the Quay’s “Custom’s House,” all lubricated with a “shandy” (lemonade and beer), and a pale ale. Then off to bed.

Portsmouth Harbor

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

The dream continues. At 7 AM, Donna and I disembarked from the Queen Mary 2 in Southampton. We were now on English soil!

Normally our section of the QM2 would leave its baggage in the corridor by our “stateroom” door, where it would be collected during the night, and prepared for evacuation from the ship next morning. We would eat between 5:30 and 7 AM at King’s Court amidships, and then gather in the Queen’s Room for a wait of almost, perhaps, two hours. By approx 10 AM we would then disembark.

But passengers do have the option of disembarking at 7 AM if they transport their own luggage. Knowing that this would give us more time for sightseeing, this is the option we chose. This is made possible by having one’s passport stamped on board a few days before. It was here that Ed made a serious error. I wore my red “Brittonkill Teachers’ Association” polo shirt, and happened to be carrying the paperback I was currently reading: Leon Uris’s novel of Irish rebellion, “Trinity.” I’m sure Great Britain feels I now have designs on them, but rest assured I have no desire to kill any Britons!

We were up early by mistake. “Crossing” to England creates a “day” of 23 hours. One needs to advance one’s watch five times. Ed mistakenly advanced his six, and so we were up early to shower, eat, and stand on the deck shortly after sunrise as we sailed majestically up the channel to the dock. Millions of mariners across history have sailed this leg, thrilled with the sight of their home turf, and we were lucky due to our mistake to have experienced it.

A ten minute taxi ride to the rail station, and a train ride of less than an hour brought us to Portsmouth, for centuries the home of the British navy. A five minute walk from the station brought us to the Keppel Head Hotel, a venerable, slightly worn, but wonderfully English hostelry filled with historic prints and overlooking one of the world’s most famous harbors. After leaving our baggage, we headed for the museums. Five hours after leaving the Queen Mary, we had walked the decks of the world’s most famous wooden warship (the “Victory”, ca. 1805), and of the world’s first ironclad warship, (the “Warrior”, 1860). We also had viewed the remains of Henry VIII’s favorite warship, the “Mary Rose” (1535), now raised from its sinking then and undergoing a lengthy conservation process. While on board “Victory,” Ed stood on the spot where the world’s most famous naval hero, Vice-Admiral Horatio Nelson, took his fatal bullet during his most illustrious triumph, the Battle of Trafalgar (1805), and we saw where he died in the ship’s hold. “Victory’s” massive triple gun decks would have made short work of the entire 16-ship American navy of that era without any help from the other 599 ships of His Majesty’s navy. No wonder the U.S. was reduced to a type of naval guerilla warfare during the War of 1812.

More of Edward's Musings

You’ve no doubt heard that sailing on a liner is like sitting in your living room. Not true, but almost. One can feel ever-so-slightly on occasion the rise and fall of the ocean and the give-and-take of the QM2. It’s a bit tricky sometimes hitting the keys of this netbook or walking in a straight line. Nevertheless, the feeling of movement is nowhere near overwhelming, and we’ve had no need to “make our contribution to Neptune” over the railing or in the restroom. I thought it might be overly noisy, but was surprised to find that the noise level is similar, perhaps, to hearing the boiler down in one’s basement firing up, and only occasionally exceeds that.

Dinners are extremely elegant. A sport coat is a must, with tuxedo/suit/tie required most evenings. Gowns for the ladies. Dinner time, location, and table are assigned. We eat in the Britannia Room, near the stern, at a table of six. By coincidence, the two couples traveling together who are our dinner mates are all retired New York City-area educators, most of whom started in the classroom and eventually moved to administration and State Ed. They and the children they tell us about are very accomplished. One grown child is now an impresario/performer for a couple of rock bands and a creator of comic books, mostly in Europe and doing quite well. Another is the film editor for Adam Chandler, whom we are told is apparently a terrific person to know and work for.

The QM2 is, I’m hearing, the biggest liner afloat, exceeded, I imagine, only by a handful of aircraft carriers. She is a celebration of the past, in mostly art-deco style, and filled with paintings and pictures of Cunard liners and personnel of by-gone days, a floating monument to 170 years of passenger liner history. Cunard (pronounced cyu-nard, apparently with the syllables equally stressed) has spared no expense. Mountains and shore, while beautiful, cannot compare. Everyone should experience this at some time in their lives. My advice is: go for it! The evening was completed by dancing the evening away at the Ascot Ball.

The morning sun is now up and burning off the light fog. Joggers and power walkers are dotting the promenade deck, and early-risers are beginning to occupy other tables in King’s Court and this alcove. Perhaps it’s time to close. Wi-fi is virtually everywhere, and Internet service is obviously available on board the QM2, but the service is too slow and the plans will cost you approx 40 to 75 cents a minute. We try to use the Internet sparingly, and will probably wait to read most of our mail when we reach some coffee house in England. Deborah Harry and Blondie are now cranking out “Heart of Glass” across Lotus’s sound system, fortunately at a very subdued volume level. More immediate: my battery is almost expired. I must sign off, but I promise I will write you more when we reach the Mother Country! Happy Birthday Jennifer!!!!

Lectures and Presentations

What else do you get here for your money? For one thing, you can’t possibly experience all the activities that are available. Each morning, Donna and I attend two lectures. So far, all of them have been very nice. They are held in a large room toward the bow called “Illuminations”, which is a movie theater almost the size of a school auditorium. It also has a small stage, and state-of-the-art sound and lighting systems. Donna and I have seen talks by a former royal press agent and British newsman, an archeo-astronomer, and others. Donna made sure she was photographed on deck with the Royal BBC Journalist Nicolas Owen. They had a very interesting conversation about what “Camilla” is really like.

Slightly further “aft” is the elegant Royal Court Theater. Each afternoon and night, one can attend shows containing singers, dancers, and performers. Donna and I have already attended a truncated Royal Academy Theatre version of “Othello”, Oscar Wilde’s “The Importance of Being Earnest”, planetarium presentations, a wonderful performance by a classical guitarist, and a Vegas-style house singing and dancing act. We have also seen and met Isobel Cooper, known as “Izzy”, one of the most famous classical vocalists in Britain, who put on a stirring show a few nights ago. She is quite beautiful, and I thought I might improve my reputation by getting photographed with her. There is no additional charge to see these acts. Try finding that at the shore or in the mountains, and for no additional charge.

Second only to Izzy is John Maxtone-Graham himself. As a published expert on the history of North Atlantic ocean liners, he gives lectures each morning, usually accompanied by old photos projected on the large Illuminations screen. He is now quite elderly, but has lost nothing. John is very tall, very thin, and often decked out in khakis and a dark blue double-breasted blazer with brass buttons, or on occasion even a kilt. His addresses here are the best attended of all, what with his courtly British manner and wry sense of humor (“Cunard calls you ‘guests’, but you are in fact paying passengers!”). He has written many books in addition to “The Only Way to Cross”, including “Titanic Survivor: The Story of Violet Jessup”. With the death of 97-year-old Millvina Dean a few weeks ago, there are no Titanic survivors left, but we do have Mr. Maxtone-Graham, who has interviewed and known many of them, and who is in many ways a last link to that famous tragedy. I decided to purchase “Titanic Survivor” and got it signed by the author during a visit to the library. Mr. Maxtone-Graham writes with a pair of large, elegant Mont Blanc fountain pens, one red, the other black, and has two glass bottles of ink continuously poised at his elbow. He is a delightful man of another age Attached is a picture of him signing my book. In case you are wondering, Violet Jessup was an English stewardess who survived the 1911 collision of the “RMS Olympic”, plus the sinking of her two “sister-ships”, the “Titanic” (1912) and the “Britannic” (1916). The last was a harrowing experience, and Violet’s is quite a story.

In addition to the above-mentioned theaters, also included is a large exercise/weight room and a small bookstore attached to the library, all over-looking the bow. We finally got to check out the swimming pool, the observation deck, the kennel, the Churchill Cigar Room, the Casino, and many other attractions like art and jewelry shows. There are a dozen restaurants and pubs, and almost anything is available 24 hours a day. The traditional “English Tea” in the Queen’s Room with the String Quartet was a wonderful way to spend a relaxing afternoon. Oddly, the draft beer selection is slightly limited, with Guinness, Stella, Becks, and Bass offered, certainly no sacrifice. Surrounding the obscenely-elegant central Grand Lobby (complete with a gigantic center-piece of fresh flowers) is a small shopping mall, where one can purchase from stores like Harrods, Chopards and Hermes. I trust you are no longer thinking mountains or shore.

Edward’s Impressions

As I write this, I am ensconced in King’s Court’s Lotus cafeteria, in a glass alcove which juts out onto the promenade deck. It is 6 AM and the sun ahead of me is just beginning to break the horizon. Almost no passengers are awake, and the only sounds are light disco muzak and the kitchen help further inboard preparing breakfast. Crew members squeegee the windows and wooden deck. About 8 or 9 AM they will bring out the green cushions for the wooden deck chairs that line the railing. It’s wonderful. We have been at sea for two-and-a-half days and are not yet that far east of Newfoundland, having turned northeast some hours ago. We have a few days to go. I will hate to see it end.

A book was published almost thirty years ago titled “The Only Way to Cross,” written by well-known maritime historian and author John Maxtone-Graham. The title is right on the money. I don’t know why anyone would fly when they could sail. I’ve heard that there are two-and-a-half crew members for every passenger, and I believe it. Stewards and waiters almost leap at you to assist you, from the Brooklyn Terminal (plentiful parking at $20 a day and luggage whisked away almost before your car stops) to your stateroom. One is well-served here.

Donna and I are berthed in what in another day might have been called “third-class” or perhaps “white collar steerage”. The cabin, though small and windowless, is nevertheless attractive, well-designed, and cushiony-comfortable, a model of efficiency. We have a king-size bed flanked by two nightstands with lamps. Our small bathroom is bright, with a tiny sink, commode, and 2’ x 3’ shower. The plumbing is not quite up to speed, but nevertheless is more than adequate. Opposite the bed is the door, and a short “hallway” lined with a plethora of closets, cupboards, and drawers, all of blond veneer and making it very easy to keep the room uncluttered if one is so inclined. At the foot of the bed, to one side, is a wing chair with small table, and on the other side a small desk and television, which offers perhaps 20 channels, including Fox News, BBC, and a handful of second-run movie services, plus QM2’s own channel, which broadcasts information like captain’s announcements, time, course, location, weather, etc. Nearby can be found a couple of American and European-style outlets (called, I’m told, “points” by the British). Also found here is a miniature refrigerator, which now houses a small bottle of champagne,“compliments of the captain.”

There is no doubt that it is considerably cheaper to fly to Britain than sail Here on the QM2, for a stay of almost 6 days, you get luxury accommodations, with unlimited food and beverages, and plenty of activities to do. Tips are included. A credit card-like pass serves as both your room key and method of payment for everything. Charges are simply forwarded to a credit card whose account number one submits when one orders tickets. Stewards and stewardesses work very hard here and pamper you. Not true on many other vacations. Ours calls himself “Edwin”. He is smiley, ever-present, and friendly, and calls us by name. He is also Asian. All help here are foreigners, and they are hard to understand, but do a great job.

Happy Anniversary!

Last night we celebrated our 14th Anniversary even though it is officially the 12th of August. They let you pick what day to celebrate if it falls within 60 days of your voyage. They announced it on the QM2 TV station, gave us a card, and sang to us when they presented us with a special dessert for dinner. Today we went to the second lecture by
John Maxtone-Graham about his book “Titanic Survivor”. He told gripping stories from people he knew that were Titanic survivors and details about Titanic’s fateful night.
This presentation has been a highlight for Ed, so we met the author, purchased the book and got it autographed. Our next lecture was by International Royal Journalist Nicholas Owen who told us a lot of behind the scene gossip about the monarchy and royal family. Our afternoon talk was by Broadway/West End Producer Steven Rivellino who told. behind the scenes stories about plays and musicals. I don’t think I want to walk the decks tonight with Ed – I don’t want to end up in a segment on Dateline NBC. Today is an art auction with paintings by Peter Max, Picasso, Dali, Chagall, and Erte to name a few. Maybe I will get a bargain! The weather has been great, and the food venues are amazing. We have been eating very responsibly! Tonight – eating & reading. I will probably Blog again Monday.

QM2 – History & Lectures

Friday we spent time exploring the ship and food and entertainment venues. I signed up for the internet to BLOG, but it is a dollar a minute. I am finding it impossible to check my e-mail because it keeps kicking me off the site. I probably won’t be able check e-mail until I reach the UK. In case of emergency – family members can reach me at my AOL e-mail. We went to a lecture on Archaeoastronomy with Charles Barklay about cultural beliefs and their relations with astronomy. Our second lecture was an amazing lecture about the history of luxury liners including the Titanic by maritime historian and author John Maxtone-Graham. During the lecture Ed leaned over to me and stated he had a copy of this book (“The Only way to Cross”) at home. (Surprise!) It was clear Ed hadn’t read the pre-cruise literature about who was going to be our guest lecturers.
We went to a show with a tribute to “Sting” music and a performance by famous soprano
Isobel Cooper – AKA “Izzy”. We enjoyed talking to her after the performance – Notice Ed’s favorite picture of the trip so far! He claims his breakfast buddies will hold him in high esteem when they see this! The evening ended with the “Black and White Ball” in the Queen’s ballroom.

Queen Mary 2 Embarkation

The drive to New York was dreadful with many traffic jams and road construction.
After a 4 ½ hour drive we arrived at the port, and it was easy to park directly next to the customs check in. Security screening only took us 10 minutes and we were walking on board with someone greeting us at every corner! There are 2 ½ staff members for each guest on board. There are 2,591 travelers on board – 719 from US – 827 from UK – 726 from Germany – and the rest from all over the world.. There are a number of families and MANY older people on the boat. For the first time in many years – I feel young! Our room in steerage turned out to be lovely, with a bottle of Champagne awaiting us. It looks like Ed has already set the tone for the trip – he only brought one piece of luggage and hung his clothes up in the larger closet. We had our first emergency drill and they explained to us how to put on our life preserver and step off the boat. I feel safer knowing there is a pen light and whistle on the life preserver! We are seated at dinner with the same two couples from Long Island for the entire trip. We are really enjoying their company - they are retired educators from NYC and very entertaining. They also shared their wine.

Packing Up

Here we are packing for our trip. Yes, this is the luggage I painted to match my Vera Bradley "Yellow Bird" pattern. I need to make us look elegant. Ed and I will make up some alias about being the "Rexford Gentry"and take pictures of the Lawrence Mansion down the road to pretend we own it. The cats are not happy that the luggage is out - they suspect something is up so Jinxy is on guard.
Our berth is in the bowels of the ship in steerage. I will be listening to the Irish music all night and cows mooing.